In post 22. A Tale of Two Forts, I talked a little about the 1825 Fort Vancouver. Here is some additional information about the first Fort Vancouver.
The image above shows one page of an undated report, thought to have been written around 1825 by an employee of the Hudson’s Bay Company. The report describes several Columbia Department forts, and one entry talks about the first Fort Vancouver at its beginning. (FYI: Punctuation was not a strong suit of the author!) It says:
Fort Vancouver is built on the north side of the Columbia about three miles above the Mult-no-mah on a high Bank one mile from the River between the Bank and the River there is a low plain two miles in length in years of High water this plain is overflown which obliged us to Build at such a distance from the River. The Fort is two hundred fifty feet in depth by one hundred and fifty in breadth surrounded by a Stockade seventeen feet above ground and flanked by two temporary Bastions with three pieces of Artillery in Each
The Buildings at present erected are two Stores of forty by thirty feet one dwelling House of sixty by forty feet an Indian House thirty by twelve and tradesmens work shop and a temporary powder magazine
While we know of no sketches of blueprints of the first fort, through this description we can imagine fairly well what the fort might have looked like. George Simpson, HBC Governor of the Columbia Department, noted the fort also included “temporary quarters for the people.” These quarters were most likely tents constructed at Fort Vancouver made of Russia sheeting, as noted below, and housed a diverse set of employees, including many Native Americans and Native Hawaiians. Materials used for the first fort are hinted at in an 1825 letter from Chief Factor McLoughlin where he says that clerk “Thos [Thomas] Mckay and a party of Canadians and Kanakas [Native Hawaiians] were sent to Ske-Chew-twa [the plain where Fort Vancouver was built] to cut the lumber necessary for building the new Fort” and that Native Americans in the vicinity were engaged to gather cedar bark to be used as roofing shingles. Flooring was brought from Fort George, in present-day Astoria, Oregon. The blacksmith William Cannon from Astoria is said to have set up a forge “under a majestic fir tree during the construction of Fort Vancouver.”
John Scouler notes in his 1825 journal that the new fort resembled Fort George, and indeed supplies and stores were said to be moved from Fort George to Fort Vancouver by lighters and canoes. However, Scouler’s observation likely meant the fort had a stockade with structures inside, not that it was exactly like Fort George.
Getting water up to the fort on the bluff was a huge feat. Attempts at digging wells on top of the bluff were unsuccessful, and primary sources recall that a man named “old La Pierre” was charged with hauling water up from the Columbia River twice a day. La Pierre filled two casks which he then lashed to a wagon pulled by two oxen named Lion and Brandy. La Pierre was apparently not shy with the whip, as he urged the oxen to struggle up the steep bluff with the heavy load of water.
The HBC kept extensive inventory lists of its forts and these lists can give us great insight into the activities and people at the fort. In the Inventory of Merchandise Provisions: The Property of the Hudson’s Bay Company Remaining on Hand at Fort Vancouver Columbia River 15th March 1826, some interesting items are noted. We can infer that a cooper, someone who makes barrels, was working at the fort because the inventory notes several coopering tools. Blacksmithing and carpentry tools were inventoried, as well. Indeed, Jedediah Smith, an American trapper, spent the winter of 1828-1829 at Fort Vancouver, and wrote that the fort had blacksmiths, gunsmiths, carpenters, coopers, a tinner, and a baker. The 1826 inventory lists many medicinal items, including spices like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, pewter syringes, corked vials, and a mortar and pestle, among many other items. I imagine these belonged to Dr. McLoughlin, Chief Factor of the fort. Clay pipes, bottles of rum, and playing cards indicate recreational and social activities. Paint, in colors black, blue, Spanish brown, green, dry white lead, and yellow, was used at the fort.
Its easy to assume that the fort occupants were all adult males at this time, but this may be because women and children are not always included in the documentary record. Interestingly, the 1826 inventory list suggests women and children indeed held some sort of presence at the fort. Inventoried were women’s beaver bonnets, youth fine bonnets, children’s blue bonnets, women’s white cotton fabric, and women’s pumps (a type of shoe).
John McLoughlin’s dream was for Fort Vancouver to eventually be almost completely self-reliant, with most food and many goods made at the fort. The 1826 inventory lists many “Columbia-made items,” made at Fort Vancouver rather than shipped in from England. Included are smithed tools like adzes, axes, beaver traps and chains; sewn items like flour bags and capotes, which are a type of blanket-coat; oak kegs; flat-bottom kettles; and tents made of Russia sheeting which is a type of canvas made of hemp linen and was most likely oiled to be waterproof. By 1826, Fort Vancouver seemed to be off to a great start in self-reliance.
McLoughlin wasted no time in starting his agricultural experiments. Crops were planted almost immediately; adjacent to the fort on the upper prairie a potato and vegetable field were planted by the spring of 1825. The spot was also renowned for its beauty and even Governor Simpson seemed awed by this place which he noted was “possessing so many natural advantages and where ornament and use are so agreeably combined.”
The crops planted in the spring of 1825 yielded 900 barrels of potatoes and 9 ½ bushels of peas in the first year. In 1826 McLoughlin planted the first wheat in Washington State and also corn, and these crops did so well that he wrote that by 1828 Fort Vancouver would be able to supply the entire Columbia Department with all the corn and flour HBC posts needed. Additionally, apple trees and grapevines were growing by 1828. Livestock and other animals also thrived at the Jolie Prairie. In 1825 over 100 horses grazed on the lower plain below the fort; by November 1828 the prairie supported over 150 head of cattle; and by 1829 about 200 hogs, 50 goats, and various domestic fowl occupied the landscape. The four years of occupation at the first fort saw the landscape metamorphose into a bastion of civilization and industry.
Interesting, looking forward to tonight’s presentation!
Congratulations on your fruitful work! Your research and communication is excellent.
Thank you for your interest!
The island in the columbia….mesquite that looks like a good bering
I wonder if it would be possible to see the location of the road used by “old man La Pierre” as the field south of this area turns from green to brown in late summer. Something like this phenomenon: https://amp.theguardian.com/science/2018/aug/15/millennia-of-human-activity-heatwave-reveals-lost-uk-archaeological-sites
Thank you for the comment! Yes, the road to the fort was of interest to me. It is drawn on sketches of the time running between two lakes on the lower plain and straight up the bluff. My belief is that it matches up with what is now Grand Blvd, and would have gone straight up the bluff instead of curving as Grand does now. Where I believe the fort to have been is some distance from this road, but they would not necessarily have built the fort directly off the road. Instead, they would have chosen the best spot to place the fort on the upper plain, and created the road on the easiest way up, even if it meant walking a little bit further to get to the fort.
Hi Amy,
I looked on Google Earth, you can definitely see this effect in photos taken in June, July, or August, depending on the weather that year. However in August 2011 the aerial photo shows 4 earth movers and the entire field south of the bluff has been scraped so I suspect any historic land features have been lost..
I looked at a LIDAR image from gis.dogami.oregon.gov and today you can see a number of paths/roads going up the bluff: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2GknuoyEDrpiEAXP6
It seems a bit steep to have a road go straight where Grand Blvd is, but I see just slightly to the west is “Z Street” which appears to be abandoned but looks like a very old road based on the path it takes…?
Anyway very interesting!
Dave
Approximately how many people lived in or around the first fort?
It is hard to say for certain. I know from a report written in about 1825 that there were 47 people associated with the fort, but many of them were gone much of the year on trapping and exploration expeditions. This number would not have included American Indians or family members, like women and children. When a site can be thoroughly excavated, archaeologists can often estimate the number of people occupying an area. In the case of the first fort, it would be highly unlikely to be able to excavate enough of the most essential areas of the fort to be able to estimate the number of people who not only occupied it, but who were living in the vicinity and visiting the fort. Yearly reports on the fort’s population would be great if they existed, but so far no one has found anything like that, unfortunately.
Amy, thanks for answering my question. Your statement “when a site can be thoroughly investigated” says a lot and is kind of where I was going with the question: if enough people were living in a relatively small area for even four years, one might expect to find privies or other discoverable artifacts, but it changes everything for the archaeologist when the site cannot be thoroughly investigated because there are residences on the site.
Incidentally (and not directly related to the above), Google Earth indicates the east-west distance between streets in section 2 is about the same as the length of the fort, 250 feet. I assume this is a coincidence.
Anyway, good talking to you again!